Viceroyal Cusco: The narrative of stone and gold in five fundamental temples
Cusco has a special quality that you don't find in many other cities: it was built on top of two ancient empires. This is not just about churches being built on top of old buildings, but about a mix of different styles that created a new and interesting look. Andean Baroque. When you visit the city's temples, you will see not only Catholic places of worship, but also evidence of cultural resistance captured in paintings, altarpieces and walls made of andesite.
If you are planning a trip to Peru's historic capital, this tour of the main churches in Cusco is a must-see to understand the true essence of the city.
1. The Cathedral Basilica: The Heart of the Plaza de Armas
Built on the site of the former palace of Inca Wiracocha, Cusco Cathedral is the city's most impressive monument. It took almost a century to build, and its Renaissance façade conceals a dazzling Baroque interior.
Don't miss: Look for Marcos Zapata's painting of “The Last Supper.” If you look closely, you'll notice that the main dish is not lamb, but roast guinea pig, a key detail of the Cusco School of art. Also noteworthy is the Lord of the Earthquakes, the patron saint of Cusco.
2. Temple of the Society of Jesus: The Jewel of the Baroque
This church was also in the Plaza de Armas. It was just as grand as the cathedral. It was built on top of the Amarucancha (palace of Huayna Cápac), and its front is considered to be one of the best examples of Andean Baroque architecture in the continent. The main altar, made from cedar and covered in gold leaf, is simply stunning.
3. Convent of Santo Domingo and the Qorikancha
This is perhaps the most fascinating site in all of Cusco. Here you will see a church, but also the real-life clash of two very different worlds. The Dominican convent was built directly on top of the walls of the Qorikancha, the Inca sun temple. The Inca masonry is perfect (stones fitted together without mortar), which contrasts dramatically with the colonial arches, creating a unique hybrid structure.
4. Church of San Blas: Wooden Art
This church is in the artisans' quarter. It is simple on the outside, but inside it has a very valuable pulpit. It is made from a single piece of cedar wood and is thought to be the best piece of wood carving from colonial America. Legend has it that the artist carved his own skull at the top of the work.
5. La Merced: Cloisters and Jewels
A few blocks from the main square, the Basilica of La Merced is worth a visit for its beautiful cloisters, which are decorated in the Renaissance and Baroque styles. But the main attraction is La Custodia, a piece of gold and precious stone jewellery weighing 22 kilos. It contains a giant pearl shaped like a mermaid.
Tips for Travelers
To visit these temples without spending too much money, we recommend buying the Archbishop's Religious Circuit Ticket, which gives you access to several of these sites (except Qorikancha and La Merced, which usually have separate tickets). Please remember that there are usually no photos allowed inside, as this is for conservation and respect for worship.
Cusco is a place where you can learn about the past in every corner. When you go into these temples, you can see not only religious art, but also the history of how a culture has changed and adapted, even when it comes to the new faith.
